Thursday, June 21, 2007

Getting crowded

Yesterday was both good and interesting. In the morning we found out what had happened to our female companion. Her leg had started hurting so she accepted a ride from a passing bread truck and wound up a day ahead of us (she wrote this in the logbook type thing since she figured we would stay there to).
I got a late start in the morning to do laundry, but soon passed up the older guy as his legs were hurting and he was moving slow. I stopped at a 道の駅 to kill some time in the late morning, and was rewarded with a gift of ice cream by a random guy.
I made it to the next 道の駅 which was near the place to stop for the day about 2:30 and hung around there for a while. Apparently people in this part of shikoku are even more generous than usual, as there I received more ice cream, onigiri, and some tea. Once the other guy caught up we headed for the night's lodging, which was a local temple. When we got there it was already unlocked and I knew I recognized the shoes at the door. Indeed it was our female friend, as well as someone I think is one of her relatives. He's one of the people who just continuously goes around and around the path. Anyway, we made a giant pot of miso soup, and the two guys do what Japanese guys always do when you get a couple together, hit the sake. It was an interesting group to say the least. There was myself (a college student), a 32 year old woman who would best be described as a nomad, a 60 year old guy who used to be either self defense force or law enforcement, and a slightly older guy
who is ex-yakuza.
Anyway, whenever the guy I've been with lately starts drinking he always starts going on about why they lost the war and how present day America is pretty messed up. Although apparently I've managed to change his stereotype of Americans, though I'm probably not the best example of your typical American. Apparently I've become something of his 恩人.
The new guy tried mixing Japanese and English, trying to ask if I was right or left handed. I had no idea what he was talking about, finally the woman told him I understood Japanese just fine and asked in Japanese, at which point I immediately figured out what he was getting at. I found it ammusing.
Today was fairly uneventful made it to 44 and 45, staying at a bus station next to an onsen. Pretty nice place, but not much food.
Companions have increased yet again, with the 4 of us from last night, a 60ish guy on a bike I've met a number of times and another older guy I haven't met before and is pretty quiet.
I definately feel like one of the group as I sit eating my microwaveable rice (raw) next to the guy eating cup ramen with cold water.
I did have an experience that really made me realize how much some of the people here respect the henro. I had a guy in a truck stop on the road and give me some anpan. Now, anpan is 150 yen at most, so that may not seem that great, but this was a fresh anpan likely from a bakery. You don't buy that if you don't intend to eat it soon. This guy decided to give up a treat I have to assume he was looking forward to to a complete stranger in the 3 or 4 seconds between me coming into view and his truck passing me by. Now that is something.

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