Yesterday was a fairly typical day. I came down out of the mountains and into something that was more or less civilization. My companions apparently didn't make it as none of them showed up to the lodging we were aiming for. I did run into another guy I've bumped into a couple times now and we both stayed the night at temple 47. Not bad accomodations. Had a fridge and microwave so I got a bit more variety in my diet.
Today was barely a day. Only had about 12k to cover as I wanted to end at temple 51 since the onsen near there is really famous. Really dissappointing as well. One bath only, no variety.
Another night in the temple. The room for this one is huge, but not much in the way of amenities. Its also used for traditional dance practice and all sortr of other local community things.
I was thinking my previous companions may catch up today, but no sign of them.
I've been taught the secret of all the free bread I could imagine. One of the interesting quirks of Japanese bakeries (and there are lots of bakeries here) is that they remove the heel from loves of bread (known as the bread's ears here). If you ask for these they gladly give you a giant bag of it. I picked up some jam at the grocery store and my breakfast and lunch just got a whole lot cheaper. The problem becomes carying it all. I've seen people who received a couple pounds worth.
Saturday, June 23, 2007
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Getting crowded
Yesterday was both good and interesting. In the morning we found out what had happened to our female companion. Her leg had started hurting so she accepted a ride from a passing bread truck and wound up a day ahead of us (she wrote this in the logbook type thing since she figured we would stay there to).
I got a late start in the morning to do laundry, but soon passed up the older guy as his legs were hurting and he was moving slow. I stopped at a 道の駅 to kill some time in the late morning, and was rewarded with a gift of ice cream by a random guy.
I made it to the next 道の駅 which was near the place to stop for the day about 2:30 and hung around there for a while. Apparently people in this part of shikoku are even more generous than usual, as there I received more ice cream, onigiri, and some tea. Once the other guy caught up we headed for the night's lodging, which was a local temple. When we got there it was already unlocked and I knew I recognized the shoes at the door. Indeed it was our female friend, as well as someone I think is one of her relatives. He's one of the people who just continuously goes around and around the path. Anyway, we made a giant pot of miso soup, and the two guys do what Japanese guys always do when you get a couple together, hit the sake. It was an interesting group to say the least. There was myself (a college student), a 32 year old woman who would best be described as a nomad, a 60 year old guy who used to be either self defense force or law enforcement, and a slightly older guy
who is ex-yakuza.
Anyway, whenever the guy I've been with lately starts drinking he always starts going on about why they lost the war and how present day America is pretty messed up. Although apparently I've managed to change his stereotype of Americans, though I'm probably not the best example of your typical American. Apparently I've become something of his 恩人.
The new guy tried mixing Japanese and English, trying to ask if I was right or left handed. I had no idea what he was talking about, finally the woman told him I understood Japanese just fine and asked in Japanese, at which point I immediately figured out what he was getting at. I found it ammusing.
Today was fairly uneventful made it to 44 and 45, staying at a bus station next to an onsen. Pretty nice place, but not much food.
Companions have increased yet again, with the 4 of us from last night, a 60ish guy on a bike I've met a number of times and another older guy I haven't met before and is pretty quiet.
I definately feel like one of the group as I sit eating my microwaveable rice (raw) next to the guy eating cup ramen with cold water.
I did have an experience that really made me realize how much some of the people here respect the henro. I had a guy in a truck stop on the road and give me some anpan. Now, anpan is 150 yen at most, so that may not seem that great, but this was a fresh anpan likely from a bakery. You don't buy that if you don't intend to eat it soon. This guy decided to give up a treat I have to assume he was looking forward to to a complete stranger in the 3 or 4 seconds between me coming into view and his truck passing me by. Now that is something.
I got a late start in the morning to do laundry, but soon passed up the older guy as his legs were hurting and he was moving slow. I stopped at a 道の駅 to kill some time in the late morning, and was rewarded with a gift of ice cream by a random guy.
I made it to the next 道の駅 which was near the place to stop for the day about 2:30 and hung around there for a while. Apparently people in this part of shikoku are even more generous than usual, as there I received more ice cream, onigiri, and some tea. Once the other guy caught up we headed for the night's lodging, which was a local temple. When we got there it was already unlocked and I knew I recognized the shoes at the door. Indeed it was our female friend, as well as someone I think is one of her relatives. He's one of the people who just continuously goes around and around the path. Anyway, we made a giant pot of miso soup, and the two guys do what Japanese guys always do when you get a couple together, hit the sake. It was an interesting group to say the least. There was myself (a college student), a 32 year old woman who would best be described as a nomad, a 60 year old guy who used to be either self defense force or law enforcement, and a slightly older guy
who is ex-yakuza.
Anyway, whenever the guy I've been with lately starts drinking he always starts going on about why they lost the war and how present day America is pretty messed up. Although apparently I've managed to change his stereotype of Americans, though I'm probably not the best example of your typical American. Apparently I've become something of his 恩人.
The new guy tried mixing Japanese and English, trying to ask if I was right or left handed. I had no idea what he was talking about, finally the woman told him I understood Japanese just fine and asked in Japanese, at which point I immediately figured out what he was getting at. I found it ammusing.
Today was fairly uneventful made it to 44 and 45, staying at a bus station next to an onsen. Pretty nice place, but not much food.
Companions have increased yet again, with the 4 of us from last night, a 60ish guy on a bike I've met a number of times and another older guy I haven't met before and is pretty quiet.
I definately feel like one of the group as I sit eating my microwaveable rice (raw) next to the guy eating cup ramen with cold water.
I did have an experience that really made me realize how much some of the people here respect the henro. I had a guy in a truck stop on the road and give me some anpan. Now, anpan is 150 yen at most, so that may not seem that great, but this was a fresh anpan likely from a bakery. You don't buy that if you don't intend to eat it soon. This guy decided to give up a treat I have to assume he was looking forward to to a complete stranger in the 3 or 4 seconds between me coming into view and his truck passing me by. Now that is something.
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Ever Onward
Not a whole lot new. The other day right after I made my last regular post I got to talking to one of the people practicing Taiko near where we were camped out (I knew it would be easier to try and sleep after they were done anyway) and we both found it ironic that aside from thd music thing our club-type activities were the same (sado and aikido).
Yesterday got to temples 40 and 41, plus was given some fruit by a shop owner by 40. Camped out at under a shelter with the old man (I say old, but he's probably 50's). Somewhere along the way we lost the girl, not sure what happened to her.
Today was 42 and then stopped at a bangai temple near an Onsen for the night. Looks like its me, the old man, and a kid on a bike so far.
Weather hasn't been too bad, with a lot of the raining happening during the night. I think I've got indoor lodging lined up through temple 60, haven't looked past that yet.
Yesterday got to temples 40 and 41, plus was given some fruit by a shop owner by 40. Camped out at under a shelter with the old man (I say old, but he's probably 50's). Somewhere along the way we lost the girl, not sure what happened to her.
Today was 42 and then stopped at a bangai temple near an Onsen for the night. Looks like its me, the old man, and a kid on a bike so far.
Weather hasn't been too bad, with a lot of the raining happening during the night. I think I've got indoor lodging lined up through temple 60, haven't looked past that yet.
Monday, June 18, 2007
Interlude 1: The Henro RPG
As I sit here waiting for food to digest so I can eat more and get my monies worth out of this buffet, I've decided to write out one of the theories/ideas my mind comes up with in its descent to madness.
Now first, you have to understand that I've got 2 and only 2 things I look forward to in the US. The first is being reunited with my computer. The second is 4 days of nerdy bliss that are Gencon.
Along those lines I've determined that the henro pilgrimage can be described in terms of an RPG. There are 3 base player characters. The walking Henro, the driving Henro, and the bus Henro. There are then prestige classes, with myself being the 野宿 class. As I haven't experienced any of the others thats the one I'll describe for now.
The first ability granted by the class is henro sleep. This allows the character to sleep in any location under any conditions. Even if woken up many times during the night the character can always wake up early in the morning with no signs of tiredness.
The next ability is henro sense. This allows the henro to sense the presence of road marks telling them when to turn. This includes ones that have been hidden or even removed.
Then theres henro stamina. This ability allows the character to continue walking even after exhausted.
Finally henro movement, which allows the character to follow the markers detected by henro sense without active thought. This gives the character the appearance of having the route memorized.
I'd imagine this would have to be a computer based RPG along the lines of Final Fantasy. It's too linear to make a good PnP game.
The battles would most likely be with snakes, wild bores, and bugs, Though I guess people wasting your time with senseless rambling could make a good final boss.
Yes, I'm having nerdiness withdrawl. The hardcore nerd action of Gencon will be a good indulgence.
Now first, you have to understand that I've got 2 and only 2 things I look forward to in the US. The first is being reunited with my computer. The second is 4 days of nerdy bliss that are Gencon.
Along those lines I've determined that the henro pilgrimage can be described in terms of an RPG. There are 3 base player characters. The walking Henro, the driving Henro, and the bus Henro. There are then prestige classes, with myself being the 野宿 class. As I haven't experienced any of the others thats the one I'll describe for now.
The first ability granted by the class is henro sleep. This allows the character to sleep in any location under any conditions. Even if woken up many times during the night the character can always wake up early in the morning with no signs of tiredness.
The next ability is henro sense. This allows the henro to sense the presence of road marks telling them when to turn. This includes ones that have been hidden or even removed.
Then theres henro stamina. This ability allows the character to continue walking even after exhausted.
Finally henro movement, which allows the character to follow the markers detected by henro sense without active thought. This gives the character the appearance of having the route memorized.
I'd imagine this would have to be a computer based RPG along the lines of Final Fantasy. It's too linear to make a good PnP game.
The battles would most likely be with snakes, wild bores, and bugs, Though I guess people wasting your time with senseless rambling could make a good final boss.
Yes, I'm having nerdiness withdrawl. The hardcore nerd action of Gencon will be a good indulgence.
Sunday, June 17, 2007
すっきりした
The past 2 days have been pretty good. Yesterday it stopped raining, I ran into a bunch of old ladies weeding a park like area around one of the rest huts, and since they figured they'd run into henro they prepared lots of doughnuts, onigiri, and tea to feed me. Also yesterday marked half way distance wise so I bought myself some cheesecake and a slightly more pricey 弁当 to celebrate. Also I guess it was a special day at the temple we stayed at because they gave us bananas.
Of coarse my luck wasn't al good. On my way back to the temple from the super it started pouring and I had left my rain gear at the temple.
Today it rained a bit in the morning then cleared up. And best of all the gods of cleanliness smiled upon me and the onsen that was my goal for the day was both open and cheap. Although tomorrow is the one day a month they're closed, so it was a close one.
Tonight is camping out in a little shelter in the parking lot of the onsen.
Of coarse my luck wasn't al good. On my way back to the temple from the super it started pouring and I had left my rain gear at the temple.
Today it rained a bit in the morning then cleared up. And best of all the gods of cleanliness smiled upon me and the onsen that was my goal for the day was both open and cheap. Although tomorrow is the one day a month they're closed, so it was a close one.
Tonight is camping out in a little shelter in the parking lot of the onsen.
Friday, June 15, 2007
And so it continues
And the rain continues. Every once in a while it slows down to a barely noticeable dribble but I don't think its ever stopped.
Yesterday my plan was to make it a short day and stay in this really nice free place I found. However when I got there at about 1 there were a number of people hanging out there, pretty sure one was the owner. Anyway, its concidered bad form to stop that early in the day, and the owner would have likely turned me away if I stated that intention. So instead they convinced me to walk another 20k and sleep in a bus stop (basically a little 3 walled concrete hut). It wasn't the best of nights, but it actually wasn't half bad. There was a コンビニ across the street so I had access to food water and restrooms.
Today I'm actually indoors for a change. Staying at temple 39. I intend to make both tomorrow and the day after short 25k days, which both gives me temple lodging tomorrow and an onsen the next day.
I've been playing leapfrog with The people I've mentioned lately. Sometimes we walk together, sometimes one gets ahead/behind.
One gigantic dissappointment happened today. On the map there's a place where they have public baths/saunas right next to tonights temple, which had me quite excited. Unfortunately I go there to find they went out of business...
Yesterday my plan was to make it a short day and stay in this really nice free place I found. However when I got there at about 1 there were a number of people hanging out there, pretty sure one was the owner. Anyway, its concidered bad form to stop that early in the day, and the owner would have likely turned me away if I stated that intention. So instead they convinced me to walk another 20k and sleep in a bus stop (basically a little 3 walled concrete hut). It wasn't the best of nights, but it actually wasn't half bad. There was a コンビニ across the street so I had access to food water and restrooms.
Today I'm actually indoors for a change. Staying at temple 39. I intend to make both tomorrow and the day after short 25k days, which both gives me temple lodging tomorrow and an onsen the next day.
I've been playing leapfrog with The people I've mentioned lately. Sometimes we walk together, sometimes one gets ahead/behind.
One gigantic dissappointment happened today. On the map there's a place where they have public baths/saunas right next to tonights temple, which had me quite excited. Unfortunately I go there to find they went out of business...
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
And it began
Yesterday was pretty typical. I ended up splitting from my companion as we had different desires in lodging. I opted for a park near where I could buy food and that put me closer to today's goal, she went for the place closer to the starting point but in the middle of nowhere, which was incidentaly where the older guy from last night was stopping.
Today however we met up again by chance. I was just finishing my lunch break and she just stopped for hers. It also started raining at that time, so neither of us had the urge to go on at the moment. We hung around the little store there for a while, then the older guy showed up this is where the fun began. He had forgotten the bottom part to his rain suit, so he decided this was as far as he was going today (there was a nice shelter with bench and bathroom). Then he saw that they were selling a giant bottle of sake for \1000. Deciding this was a good enough time to spend the day he buys it. The woman had 2 cups and he spilled one, but downed the rest in about 2 hours. Said lots of random stupid things. Myself and my once more companion decided to take our leave, and headed out in the rain. Due to the extended lunch break and rain I decided to not go as far as planned, so we both stopped at a shelter in a park for the night. She has a tent (the shelter has lots of big open
windows) but I'm hunkered down in a shelter made of a tarp, benches, and twine.
One thing that does dissappoint me is that I had a flash of insight too late. It didn't occur to me last night that I had lots of fish stores nearby and a giant beach on which to build a nice cooking fire until after dinner.
And so 梅雨 has begun.
Today however we met up again by chance. I was just finishing my lunch break and she just stopped for hers. It also started raining at that time, so neither of us had the urge to go on at the moment. We hung around the little store there for a while, then the older guy showed up this is where the fun began. He had forgotten the bottom part to his rain suit, so he decided this was as far as he was going today (there was a nice shelter with bench and bathroom). Then he saw that they were selling a giant bottle of sake for \1000. Deciding this was a good enough time to spend the day he buys it. The woman had 2 cups and he spilled one, but downed the rest in about 2 hours. Said lots of random stupid things. Myself and my once more companion decided to take our leave, and headed out in the rain. Due to the extended lunch break and rain I decided to not go as far as planned, so we both stopped at a shelter in a park for the night. She has a tent (the shelter has lots of big open
windows) but I'm hunkered down in a shelter made of a tarp, benches, and twine.
One thing that does dissappoint me is that I had a flash of insight too late. It didn't occur to me last night that I had lots of fish stores nearby and a giant beach on which to build a nice cooking fire until after dinner.
And so 梅雨 has begun.
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